PROCESSING and FERMENTATION IN NAGALAND: HOW GREY SOUL HELPED SHAPE A NEW FLAVOUR LANGUAGE ROASTING NORTH-EAST INDIAN COFFEE
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Why Processing Matters More in Nagaland Than Anywhere Else in India
In traditional South Indian estates, coffee processing is standardized — washed coffee dominates, infrastructure is centralized, and flavour outcomes are predictable.
Nagaland is the opposite.
Here, processing is the single biggest driver of flavour differentiation because:
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Farms are small and decentralized
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Microclimates vary dramatically village-to-village
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Infrastructure is limited but flexible
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Farmers are open to experimentation
Grey Soul recognized early that processing, not just origin, would define Nagaland’s specialty identity.
Traditional Processing: The Starting Point
Washed (Fully Washed) Coffees
Most early Nagaland coffees were washed by necessity rather than design.
Characteristics:
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Clean cup structure
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Tea-like body
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Citrus and floral acidity
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High clarity but limited sweetness
These coffees established Nagaland’s baseline quality but did not fully express its potential.
The Shift Toward Natural Processing
Grey Soul encouraged select farmers to trial natural (dry) processing, despite the risks.
Natural Processing in Nagaland
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Cherries dried whole on raised beds
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Drying times: 18–30 days (longer due to humidity)
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Requires constant turning and shade protection
Flavour Impact:
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Strawberry, raspberry, tropical fruit notes
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Increased body and sweetness
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Softer acidity with extended finish
Natural coffees from districts like Mon and Mokokchung began to display Ethiopia-like fruit intensity, a rarity for Indian coffee.
Honey & Pulped-Natural Experiments
Honey processing emerged as a middle ground between washed clarity and natural sweetness.
Why it worked well in Nagaland:
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Lower risk than naturals
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Easier to control fermentation
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Retains mucilage sugars
Cup Profile:
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Stone fruit
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Honey sweetness
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Balanced acidity
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Rounder mouthfeel
Grey Soul often used honey-processed Nagaland coffees as espresso-friendly light roasts, bridging specialty filter drinkers and espresso lovers.
Controlled Fermentation: The Real Breakthrough
The biggest leap came with controlled and extended fermentations.
Why Fermentation Works in the North-East
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Cooler ambient temperatures
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High humidity (manageable with airflow)
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Wild yeast diversity
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Slower microbial activity
This allowed for longer, more nuanced fermentation without overpowering the coffee.
Anaerobic & Extended Fermentation Trials
Grey Soul collaborated with farmers on:
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24–72 hour anaerobic fermentation
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Sealed containers or barrels
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Temperature monitoring using basic thermometers
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Controlled cherry selection
Resulting Flavour Profiles:
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Intense berry aromatics
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Wine-like acidity
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Tropical sweetness
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Complex layered finish
These coffees formed the foundation for fruit-forward releases like Strawberry In Loop and similar experimental microlots.
Drying Protocols: The Unsung Hero
Fermentation means nothing without proper drying.
Grey Soul emphasized:
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Raised bed drying over tarpaulins
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Shade-net drying to prevent case hardening
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Moisture targets of 10.5–11.5%
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Extended resting before hulling
This dramatically improved:
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Cup cleanliness
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Shelf stability
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Roast consistency
Challenges & Failures (And Why They Matter)
Not every experiment worked.
Some lots:
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Over-fermented
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Developed phenolic off-notes
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Became unstable during storage
Grey Soul treated these as learning tools, not losses — cupping failures alongside successes to refine future protocols.
This trial-and-error phase is what allowed later successes to be repeatable, not accidental.
Roasting Fermented Nagaland Coffees
Fermented coffees demand restraint.
Roast Adjustments
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Lower initial heat application
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Avoid aggressive Maillard phases
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Shorter development time
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Faster airflow post-first crack
Over-roasting fermented coffees flattens complexity and introduces bitterness.
Grey Soul’s roast philosophy focuses on clarity over intensity — letting fermentation speak, not dominate.
How These Coffees Changed Consumer Perception
Before these releases:
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Indian coffee = chocolatey, nutty, dark roast
After:
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Indian coffee = fruity, floral, experimental